Hi,
I've been trying to find a reliable way to make splices. I started with a tape splicer, but was unhappy that you can see the splice go through when projected (and also that the film sometimes catches in the projector). So I have tried to move to a cement splicer. My splicer makes a splice right in the middle of a frame and, though they never catch in the projector, are even more visible when projected. I make films which require very little disturbance when viewing and I need a solution. Would a "bevelled" cement splicer (like the bolex) work better? How does that work? And is a hot splicer the same as a cement one?
I just want a damn perfect cut!
Noah
I tried about every type of splice and found that the WURKER tape splice works the best. I started using it on sound film because it has no frame loss & no sound drop out. The splicer itself was about $100.00 and the tapes were about $12.00 or so. It gave a fool proof splice and it went through the projector without a problem . Regardless of the cost it gave a nice finish to the film and I have never had a problem with film breakage due to old splices.
The best splices are cement splices. If you are willing to shed over $1,000, at the top of the list is the Hammann splicer. It cleaves the film rather than ground it. Next is the Ikon Movipress. It works the same but hard to find. I have this cleaver and it works excellent. Next in the list is the Bolex splicer. It creates bevelled splices but you have to ground both edges of the film manually. Next is the Agfa N8S. It works the same as the Bolex buy at 20-30% lesser cost. I had all of the above except the Hammann. The Ikon Movipress works the best.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I use a Bolex bevel. It makes excellent splices when done correctly but I can't guarantee that they will be totally invisible all the time.Originally posted by noahstout:
I just want a damn perfect cut!
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